Twill and gabardine are two popular fabrics used in the production of pants, each with its own unique characteristics, advantages, and ideal use - cases. As a pants supplier, I have in - depth knowledge of these two fabrics and their differences, which I'll share in this blog.
1. Fabric Composition and Structure
Twill
Twill fabric is characterized by a distinct diagonal rib pattern on its surface. This pattern is created during the weaving process, where the weft thread passes over one or more warp threads in a regular sequence, then under two or more warp threads. The resulting diagonal lines are what give twill its recognizable look.
Twill can be made from various fibers, including cotton, wool, and synthetic materials. Cotton twill is very common; it's breathable, comfortable, and relatively easy to care for. Wool twill offers warmth and durability, making it suitable for colder climates. Synthetic twill, such as polyester twill, is often used for its wrinkle - resistance and affordability.
Gabardine
Gabardine is also a type of twill weave, but it has a finer and more closely - woven structure compared to regular twill. The diagonal lines on gabardine are less pronounced and more subtle. It is typically made from high - quality fibers, with wool being the most traditional choice. However, modern gabardine can also be made from cotton or a blend of cotton and synthetic fibers.
The tight weave of gabardine gives it excellent strength and durability. It is less likely to fray or tear compared to regular twill, making it a great option for pants that need to withstand a lot of wear and tear.
2. Appearance
Twill
The diagonal pattern on twill pants is quite prominent, which gives them a more casual and rustic look. Depending on the fiber used, twill pants can range from a soft, faded appearance (especially in cotton twill) to a more structured look in wool twill. They come in a wide variety of colors, from classic neutrals like khaki and navy to more vibrant hues.
Twill pants are often associated with a laid - back, everyday style. They are suitable for both casual and semi - formal occasions. For example, you can pair cotton twill pants with a simple t - shirt for a weekend outing or with a button - down shirt for a more dressed - up casual look.
Gabardine
Gabardine pants have a more refined and sophisticated appearance. The subtle diagonal lines and the smooth surface of the fabric give them a clean and professional look. They are commonly found in darker, more muted colors such as black, charcoal, and navy, which are perfect for formal and business settings.
Gabardine pants are often chosen for their ability to hold a crease well. This makes them ideal for dress codes that require a neat and tidy appearance, such as office wear or business meetings. You can learn more about our High Waisted Wide Leg Overalls which also showcase different fabric qualities.
3. Comfort
Twill
Cotton twill pants are very comfortable to wear, especially in warm weather. They are breathable, allowing air to circulate around the legs, which helps to keep you cool. The fabric is also soft against the skin, reducing the risk of irritation.
However, wool twill pants may be less comfortable in hot weather due to their insulating properties. They are better suited for colder seasons when warmth is a priority. The weight of twill pants can vary depending on the fiber and the thickness of the fabric, so you can choose a pair that suits the climate and your personal comfort preferences.
Gabardine
Gabardine pants made from natural fibers like wool can be quite warm, which is great for cold weather. However, they may feel a bit stuffy in hot and humid conditions. Modern cotton - blend gabardine offers a good balance between comfort and durability. It is breathable enough for everyday wear and still maintains the strength and structure of the fabric.
The tight weave of gabardine can sometimes make the pants feel a bit stiffer compared to twill, especially when they are new. But with wear, they will gradually soften and conform to your body shape, becoming more comfortable over time.
4. Durability
Twill
The durability of twill pants depends on the fiber and the quality of the fabric. Cotton twill is relatively durable, but it may wear out faster, especially in areas that experience a lot of friction, such as the knees and the seat. Wool twill is more durable and can last for a long time with proper care.
Synthetic twill, on the other hand, is highly resistant to wear and tear. It is less likely to fade or shrink, making it a good choice for those who need long - lasting pants.


Gabardine
Gabardine is known for its exceptional durability. The tight weave of the fabric makes it resistant to abrasion, tearing, and fraying. This is why gabardine pants are often used in workwear and military uniforms, where durability is a key requirement.
Even with frequent use and washing, gabardine pants can maintain their shape and integrity for a long time. They are a great investment if you are looking for pants that will stand the test of time.
5. Breathability
Twill
As mentioned earlier, cotton twill is highly breathable. The natural fibers allow air to pass through the fabric, which helps to keep your legs cool and dry. This makes cotton twill pants a popular choice for summer and warm - weather activities.
Wool twill, however, is less breathable. The dense fibers of wool trap heat and moisture, which can make you feel uncomfortable in hot weather. But in cold weather, this property actually works to your advantage by providing insulation.
Gabardine
Traditional wool gabardine is not very breathable, especially in its pure form. The tight weave that gives it its strength also restricts air circulation. However, modern cotton - based or cotton - blend gabardine offers improved breathability. These blends combine the durability of gabardine with the breathability of cotton, making them suitable for a wider range of climates.
6. Care and Maintenance
Twill
Cotton twill pants are generally easy to care for. They can usually be machine - washed in cold or warm water with a mild detergent. However, they may shrink slightly after the first wash, so it's a good idea to check the care label before washing.
Wool twill pants require more delicate care. They should be dry - cleaned or hand - washed in cool water with a wool - specific detergent to prevent shrinking and damage to the fibers.
Gabardine
Gabardine pants, especially those made from wool, often need to be dry - cleaned to maintain their shape and quality. The tight weave can make it difficult for stains to penetrate, but when they do, dry - cleaning is usually the best way to remove them.
Cotton - blend gabardine pants are more forgiving and can often be machine - washed on a gentle cycle. But to keep the crease and the overall appearance of the pants, it's still recommended to follow the care instructions on the label.
7. Cost
Twill
The cost of twill pants can vary widely depending on the fiber and the brand. Cotton twill pants are generally more affordable, especially those made from lower - quality cotton or synthetic blends. They are a great option for budget - conscious consumers who still want a stylish and comfortable pair of pants.
Wool twill pants are more expensive due to the cost of the raw material and the manufacturing process. But they offer better quality and durability, making them a worthwhile investment for those who can afford them.
Gabardine
Gabardine pants, especially those made from high - quality wool, tend to be more expensive than twill pants. The fine weaving process and the use of premium fibers contribute to the higher cost. However, the durability and the sophisticated appearance of gabardine pants make them a popular choice for formal and professional wear.
Contact for Purchase
If you are interested in purchasing twill or gabardine pants, or have any questions about our products, feel free to reach out to us. We offer a wide range of styles, including Drawstring Casual Sweat Pants and Tight High Waisted Pants, to meet your diverse needs. Our team of experts is ready to assist you in finding the perfect pants for your requirements.
References
- Vining, Elizabeth. "Textile Handbook: Weaving, Knitting, and Non - woven Fabrics." McGraw - Hill Education, 2018.
- Lewis, Richard. "The Complete Guide to Fabrics for Clothing." Wiley Publishing, 2020.
